GE Range Hood 1168 Not Working? Try This First [2026]

Quick Fix Summary

The most common fix for a GE range hood Model 1168 is restoring proper airflow and power: clean or replace the grease filters, verify the hood is getting 120V at the outlet, and confirm the fan and light switches are operating. If lights fail, replace the bulb and check the socket; if the fan is weak, remove obstructions, clean the filters, and inspect the blower wheel and damper.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

1. Safety first and identify your exact model

   Unplug the hood or switch off its circuit breaker before you start. Remove the filters and look for the rating label inside the hood body to confirm GE range hood Model 1168 and note key specs. Most GE under-cabinet hoods run on 120V AC, 60 Hz and draw around 1-2 amps depending on fan speed. They typically use aluminum mesh grease filters and either an incandescent or LED lamp. Gather basic tools: Phillips screwdriver, non-contact voltage tester, multimeter, flashlight, and degreaser. Knowing whether your unit is ducted (vents outside) or recirculating (uses a charcoal filter to return air inside) will guide airflow checks.

2. Verify power, outlet, and control switches

   Plug a small appliance into the same outlet to confirm power. If dead, check the kitchen GFCI and the main breaker; reset if tripped. With power off, inspect the cord for damage and ensure strain relief is intact. If your hood hardwires, open the wiring compartment and verify secure wire nuts on hot, neutral, and ground. With the multimeter, confirm 120V at the input. Switch the hood back on and test the fan at each speed and the light. If the fan runs intermittently, the rocker or touch switch may have worn contacts. Tip: Spray electrical contact cleaner into mechanical switches (power off) and actuate several times to restore continuity. If no change, plan to replace the switch module.

3. Lights do not work or flicker

   Remove the lens or lamp cover and pull the bulb. Inspect the filament (for incandescent) or base. Replace with a known good bulb of the correct base and wattage per the label inside the hood. Many hoods accept standard medium base (E26) bulbs or small base (E12) lamps; verify yours. If the new bulb does not light, measure voltage at the socket with the light switch on; you should see about 120V. If voltage is present but no light, the socket is likely heat-damaged or the contacts are corroded; replace the socket. If no voltage is present, test the light switch for continuity and check the wiring harness for loose connectors. Note: If you upgrade to LED, use a bulb rated for enclosed fixtures and AC 120V to avoid flicker.

4. Fan does not run, runs slowly, or hums

   Remove filters and visually inspect the blower wheel for grease buildup or foreign objects. Spin the wheel gently; it should turn freely without scraping. Humming without spin often points to a failed run capacitor (on hoods that use one) or a stuck blower. Test the capacitor with a capacitance function on your meter; replace if out of tolerance. Measure motor winding resistance per service literature; a shorted or open winding means the motor needs replacement. Many motors include a thermal protector that opens if overheated; persistent open circuit indicates failure. Also inspect the fan switch: if one speed works and another does not, the speed selector contacts may be burnt. Replace the switch pack if resistance readings are inconsistent.

5. Weak capture, smoke lingering, or poor airflow

   Airflow problems are usually grease and duct related. Wash aluminum mesh filters in hot, soapy water, rinse, and dry fully; replace if the mesh is deformed. If your hood is recirculating, replace charcoal filters every 3-6 months for odor control. Check the backdraft damper for binding; the flap should open freely with suction. Inspect ductwork for kinks, crushed sections, or long runs with multiple elbows that increase static pressure. Use smooth-walled metal duct and a short, straight run whenever possible. For a quick test, hold a tissue at the filter; strong capture indicates the blower and duct are working. If airflow is still low after cleaning, the blower wheel may be loose on the shaft or installed backwards; tighten the set screw and orient the wheel correctly. In tight homes, makeup air may be limited; opening a nearby window slightly can help.

6. Excess noise, rattles, or vibration

   Noise typically comes from loose mounts, a rubbing fan wheel, or a noisy damper. Verify all mounting screws are tight at the cabinet and wall. Re-seat the blower housing and ensure no wires touch the wheel. If the blower wheel is bent, replace it. Inspect the damper in the duct connector; a metal flap can chatter in high flow. Add a felt edge or replace with a spring-loaded damper for quieter operation. If resonance occurs at a specific speed, check that the filters are seated and the lens cover is clipped in. Adding thin gasket tape between the hood and cabinet can reduce vibration transmission.

7. Grease, odors, and maintenance schedule

   Heavy grease reduces performance and can damage the motor. Wipe the interior with a non-abrasive degreaser monthly. Clean filters monthly if you cook often; dishwashers can handle many aluminum mesh filters on the top rack. Do not use oven cleaner or harsh solvents on painted surfaces. For odor control in recirculating setups, charcoal filters must be replaced regularly; washing them does not restore effectiveness. Tip: Run the hood for 5-10 minutes after cooking to clear residual vapors.

8. Controls and wiring harness checks

   If buttons or switches are unresponsive, disconnect power and pull the control panel. Check for loose spade connectors and signs of heat at terminals. Test continuity across the fan and light switches and verify the harness from controls to motor and socket is intact. Some variants use a small control board for lighting; inspect for burnt components. Replace the rocker switch set or keypad if continuity is unreliable. Secure all grounds; a floating ground can cause flicker or noise.

9. Final tests and performance verification

   Restore power and test each fan speed and the light. Listen for smooth operation and confirm the damper opens. Hold a tissue at the front edge of the hood to check capture. If you have a clamp meter, observe current draw; a spike beyond rated amperage suggests mechanical drag or electrical fault. Reinstall clean filters and confirm they fit flush. After repairs, keep a log of what was replaced and the date so you can track maintenance intervals.

Replacement Parts

When repairs are needed, using compatible parts ensures safe operation of your GE range hood Model 1168. Always match part numbers from the rating label or the original component and compare dimensions before ordering. Common replacements include items that wear with heat and grease or moving parts that fatigue over time. If you are unsure, consult the installation manual or contact GE support with your full model and serial number to confirm part compatibility.

• Aluminum mesh grease filter set (verify size and clip style).
• Charcoal filter kit (for recirculating installations).
• Light bulb (incandescent or LED, correct base type E26 or E12 as specified).
• Light socket or lamp holder assembly.
• Rocker switch set or keypad/selector panel.
• Blower motor assembly and mounting bracket.
• Fan wheel or blade (ensure correct rotation and bore size).
• Run capacitor (for motors that use an external cap).
• Backdraft damper for duct connector.
• Wiring harness, spade connectors, and strain relief.
• Mounting screws, brackets, and gasket tape.

Find compatible parts and accessories here: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=GE+range+hood+Model+1168&tag=manuallogic-20. Use OEM or high-quality aftermarket components rated for 120V kitchen ventilation. After installing any replacement, perform the final tests above to confirm correct operation and safe airflow.