KitchenAid Dishwasher Not Draining? Try This Fix [2026]

Quick Fix Summary

Most KitchenAid dishwasher drain failures are solved by clearing a clog in the filter, sump, or drain path and running a Cancel/Drain to force a pump-out. Check and clean the filter at the bottom of the tub, run the garbage disposal to clear the sink drain, and make sure the dishwasher’s drain hose has a clear path (and that a new disposal’s knockout plug has been removed). If the tub still will not empty, the drain pump may be jammed or failed.

In many cases, a simple Cancel/Drain cycle plus cleaning the filter and air gap (if equipped) restores normal draining within minutes. If you are seeing error code F9-E1 (long drain) or code 9-1 in diagnostics, follow the step-by-step guide below.

What Causes This Problem

A KitchenAid dishwasher relies on a small drain pump, a clear drain hose, and a free-flowing sink drain to remove water at the end of each cycle. Several common issues can interrupt this process:

1) Clogged filter or sump debris restricting flow: Food particles, labels, rice, and broken glass can collect in the triple filter system and sump at the bottom of the tub. When the filter is blocked or the pump’s small impeller can’t spin due to debris, water cannot exit fast enough, triggering a long-drain condition. This is the top cause of standing water complaints.

2) Blocked drain path (disposal knockout, air gap, or hose kinks): If the dishwasher recently tied into a new garbage disposal, the knockout plug in the disposal’s dishwasher inlet might not have been removed. An air gap (the small dome on the sink deck) can clog with grease and seeds. Under the sink, the drain hose can kink, collapse, or sag without a required high loop, causing backflow and slow drain.

3) Faulty or jammed drain pump: Drain pumps wear out over time or seize if they ingest foreign objects. When the motor windings are open, shorted, or the impeller hub is stripped, the pump may hum but not move water, or it may be silent and inactive. This often leads to error codes like F9-E1 (long drain) or 9-1 in service diagnostics.

4) Check valve stuck open or closed: A one-way check valve in the drain path prevents backflow from the sink. If it sticks closed, the dishwasher cannot discharge; if stuck open, sink water can run back into the tub. Either condition can leave standing water and soap residue.

5) Float switch/overflow or oversuds issues: If excessive suds or an overflow occurs, the float switch (usually at the front-right of the tub floor) opens and the control can enter a protective drain/lockout state. Detergent overdosing or using non-dishwasher soap can cause foam that interferes with level sensing and drain performance, sometimes causing F8-E4 (overflow/float switch open) or F6-E4/6-4 (float switch open) codes.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Start with the easiest checks and work up to component testing and replacement. Keep towels handy. For any electrical tests or part removal, turn off the dishwasher breaker. Many KitchenAid dishwashers are built by Whirlpool, so codes and procedures often match Whirlpool service practices.

1. Run a Cancel/Drain to force a pump-out. Close the door and press Cancel/Drain (or Cancel, then wait). On many models, pressing Cancel immediately starts the drain pump for about 2 minutes. Listen for water moving into the disposal or air gap. If you hear the pump but water remains, a blockage is likely.
2. Clear the sink drain and garbage disposal. If your dishwasher discharges into a disposal, run the disposal with cold water for 20 to 30 seconds to clear any sludge. If you recently installed a disposal, confirm the dishwasher inlet knockout plug inside the disposal nipple was removed. A remaining knockout will completely block drain flow from the dishwasher.
3. Power reset the control. Turn the dishwasher off at the breaker for 5 minutes to reset the control if it is latched in a fault. Restore power, then run a short rinse cycle and see if it drains at end of cycle. This clears some software lockups after an overflow or power glitch.
4. Remove and clean the filter assembly. Open the door and pull out the lower rack. Most KitchenAid units have a twist-to-unlock filter at the tub bottom: rotate the cylindrical upper filter counterclockwise and lift, then lift the coarse lower filter screen. Rinse both under warm water with a soft brush, removing food and grease. Check the sump opening for foreign objects.
5. Check the float switch and movement. Locate the float at the front-right floor of the tub. Make sure it moves freely up and down and you hear a distinct click from the microswitch when lifting it (sound may be subtle). Remove any debris under it. A stuck float can prevent proper drain logic or trigger an overflow fault (F8-E4 or 6-4).
6. Inspect the drain hose for kinks and proper high loop. Look under the sink and trace the dishwasher drain hose from the cabinet wall to the air gap or disposal. Ensure there are no kinks, pinches, or crushed spots. The hose must have a high loop fastened to the underside of the countertop to prevent backflow; if required by code, use a sink-deck air gap.
7. Clean the air gap (if equipped). Unscrew or pop off the air gap cap at the sink. Pull out the inner insert and flush out debris with water and a small brush or pipe cleaner. Many drain failures are simply a clogged air gap restricting flow out of the dishwasher.
8. Disconnect and flush the drain hose. Place a towel and bucket under the sink. Loosen the clamp at the air gap or disposal inlet and remove the hose. Check for gunk at the hose end and nipple. Try to back-flush the hose with warm water. If the hose is collapsed or heavily gunked, replace it (common kit: W10878507RP drain hose kit).
9. Enter service diagnostics and check stored error codes. With the door closed, press any 3 keys in this sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 within 8 seconds (for example, Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal). The dishwasher should enter diagnostics, run through tests, and display codes or blink sequences. Codes to watch: F9-E1 (long drain), F8-E1 (slow drain), 9-1 (drain pump failure in service code format), F8-E4 (overflow/float switch open), F6-E4 or 6-4 (float switch open). Use this information to focus your next steps.
10. Inspect the check valve for blockage or failure. Many KitchenAid models use a one-way check valve at the sump outlet or in-line on the drain path (common replacement: WPW10327249). Remove the lower toe-kick panel, access the sump outlet, and detach the short hose connection to find the small flapper-style valve. It should move freely in one direction only. Clean or replace if stuck or degraded.
11. Test the drain pump for mechanical jam. With power off and water mopped up, remove the toe-kick and locate the drain pump on the front/side of the sump (often front-right). Remove the wiring connector and mounting screws or twist-lock, then pull the pump motor out. Check the impeller for broken blades or debris. If jammed by glass or a seed, clear and reassemble. If the impeller spins freely but the hub is stripped, replace the pump (common part number: WPW10348269).
12. Electrical test of the drain pump and harness. Using a multimeter, measure pump coil resistance across the two terminals; many drain pumps read roughly 20-40 ohms. Infinite (open) or near-zero (short) resistance indicates a bad motor. During a forced drain, the pump should receive ~120 VAC. If voltage is present but the pump does not spin, replace the pump. If no voltage is present during drain, inspect wiring and the control board.
13. Check the sump/chopper screen for foreign objects. Remove the lower spray arm and the screws securing the pump cover (refer to your model’s user guide for screw locations). Inspect the chopper screen area (on some older models) and the sump for broken glass, popcorn kernels, or labels that can restrict water flow to the drain outlet. Clean thoroughly and reassemble, ensuring gaskets are properly seated.
14. Address oversuds and detergent issues. If you recently switched detergents or used dish soap, oversuds can cause drain problems and float faults. Run a quick cycle with cold water and add 1-2 tablespoons of cooking oil to knock down suds, then run a Cancel/Drain. Switch to a high-quality dishwasher detergent pod and keep rinse aid at the proper setting. If you see F8-E4 or 6-4, clear the water under the float and ensure no leaks.
15. Evaluate the control board and replace parts as needed. If the drain path is clear and the pump tests good but voltage is not sent to the pump during a drain command, the control board relay may be failed. Visual signs include burnt pins at the pump connector or on the board. At this stage, most homeowners should call a pro; if you choose to proceed, order the model-specific control for your unit and follow service literature for replacement.

After each corrective step, run a rinse or Cancel/Drain and confirm the tub empties within about 60-120 seconds. Normal drain noise should be a steady hum with a whoosh at the sink or air gap; gurgling or backflow into the tub indicates a hose routing or check valve problem.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I reset a KitchenAid dishwasher that will not drain?

First press Cancel/Drain to force a pump-out; most units will run the drain pump for 1-2 minutes. If the control seems unresponsive or stuck in a fault, turn the breaker off for 5 minutes to reset the electronics, then restore power. You can also enter service diagnostics by pressing three keys in sequence 1-2-3, 1-2-3, 1-2-3 (for example, Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal - Heated Dry - Normal) to clear faults and run a drain test.

What does F9-E1 or 9-1 mean on a KitchenAid dishwasher?

F9-E1 (sometimes displayed as 9-1 in service or on models without full alphanumeric displays) indicates a long drain condition. The control did not see the water level drop as expected during the drain window. Common causes are a clogged filter or sump, blocked drain hose or air gap, or a failed drain pump. Work through the hose, filter, and pump checks first.

Why does my dishwasher not drain after installing a new garbage disposal?

Most new disposals ship with a solid knockout plug sealing the dishwasher inlet nipple. You must punch out and remove that plug before connecting the dishwasher hose. If the knockout remains, the dishwasher will not be able to discharge water. Also make sure the disposal inlet and your air gap (if used) are free of debris.

Where is the filter on my KitchenAid dishwasher and how often should I clean it?

The filter sits at the bottom center of the tub under the lower spray arm. Twist the cylindrical upper filter counterclockwise and lift it out, then remove the flat lower screen. Rinse both under warm water with a soft brush. KitchenAid recommends cleaning monthly in normal use, or more often if you see food particles or cloudy water.

Is it safe to run the dishwasher with standing water in the bottom?

It is best to address the drain issue first. Standing water can contain food debris and grease that may cause odors and mold, and attempting to run another cycle can worsen a clog. Always remove as much water as possible with a cup and towels, then clear the filter, hose, and air gap before running a new cycle.

When to Call a Professional

Contact a certified appliance technician if:

• You repeatedly see F9-E1 or 9-1 after clearing clogs and cleaning the filter.
• The drain pump receives 120 VAC during a drain command but does not run, or it runs loudly and still leaves water behind.
• There is evidence of melted wiring, burnt connectors at the pump, or a suspected control board relay failure.
• There are leaks, overflows (F8-E4), or persistent float switch errors (6-4) that you cannot trace to a simple obstruction.
• You are not comfortable removing panels, working with electrical components, or accessing tight spaces under the dishwasher.

Typical repair costs:

• Drain pump replacement (WPW10348269): $150-$300 parts and labor, depending on region and access.
• Drain hose replacement (W10878507RP): $100-$180 installed, including parts and clamps.
• Check valve replacement (WPW10327249): $100-$180 installed.
• Air gap service/under-sink correction: $100-$200, often done by a plumber if sink plumbing needs adjustment.
• Control board replacement: $250-$450 installed, model-dependent.

If your dishwasher is within its warranty window, contact KitchenAid support with your model and serial number before proceeding with repairs.

Replacement Parts

Always verify parts by model number before ordering. KitchenAid dishwashers share many components with Whirlpool-built units; part numbers below are common across many models but may vary.

• Drain pump (WPW10348269): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=WPW10348269+KitchenAid+drain+pump&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Dishwasher drain hose kit (W10878507RP): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=W10878507RP+KitchenAid+drain+hose&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Check valve (WPW10327249): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=WPW10327249+check+valve+dishwasher&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Float switch (WPW10195039): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=WPW10195039+KitchenAid+float+switch&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Motor and sump assembly (W11032770 - verify for your model): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=W11032770+KitchenAid+dishwasher+motor+sump&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Air gap kit (universal): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dishwasher+air+gap+kit&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20
• Filter assembly (model-specific): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+filter&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=KitchenAid+dishwasher+not+draining&tag=manuallogic-20

Tip: When replacing the drain pump, have new hose clamps on hand and take photos of wire connections. After any repair, run a quick wash and watch the drain phase; look for a strong, steady flow at the air gap or disposal and no water returning to the tub. Keeping the filter clean, using the right detergent, and ensuring a proper high loop or air gap will prevent most drain issues from returning.