Ring 1579 Sprinkler Not Working? Try This First

Quick Fix Summary

The most common fix for a Ring sprinkler system controller Model 1579 that goes offline or will not run zones is to restore stable power and network. Start by power-cycling the controller and router, confirming the 24 VAC transformer is outputting the correct voltage, and reseating the common (COM) wire and zone wires. In many cases, tightening loose terminals and ensuring a solid 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi connection resolves issues in minutes.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Before you begin

Read your Model 1579 manual for device-specific safety and reset steps. Smart irrigation controllers typically use a 24 VAC transformer, a shared common (COM) terminal, and individual zone outputs. If you are uncomfortable working with electrical components, consult a professional.

• Tools: multimeter (AC volts and ohms), small flat screwdriver, smartphone with the app, zip ties, weatherproof wire connectors.
• Safety: unplug power before moving wires. Never test resistance on live circuits.

1. Verify power at the source. Plug a lamp or tester into the outlet feeding the controller to ensure the circuit is live. Check nearby GFCI outlets and reset if tripped. Inspect the transformer label; most irrigation controllers require 24 VAC. Use a multimeter to measure AC voltage at the transformer secondary or the controller AC input; you should see close to 24 VAC. If you read 0 VAC or a very low value, replace the transformer.
2. Power-cycle and soft reset. Unplug the transformer from the wall for 30 seconds, then reconnect. Wait 2 to 3 minutes for the controller to fully boot. If your Model 1579 includes a reset button, perform a soft reset per the manual (for example, hold for 10-15 seconds) to clear transient faults without erasing schedules.
3. Stabilize Wi-Fi connectivity. Most controllers work best on 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi. Ensure your phone is near the controller and router during setup. If your router has band steering or combines SSIDs, consider creating a dedicated 2.4 GHz SSID for setup. Place the router or a mesh node closer so RSSI is better than about -60 dBm. Disable MAC filtering, ensure DHCP is on, and reserve a DHCP lease for the controller to prevent IP conflicts.
4. Inspect low-voltage wiring. Disconnect power. Open the wiring bay and check that the common white wire (or as installed) is firmly landed on the COM terminal and that each zone wire is fully inserted in its corresponding zone terminal. Tug gently to confirm no loose conductors. Look for corrosion, frayed copper, or two wires accidentally touching. Clean and re-terminate with fresh wire ends if needed and tighten terminal screws securely.
5. Run a manual zone test. Restore power. Using the app or the controller's manual run feature, start each zone for 1 to 2 minutes. Listen for the click at the valve box and observe sprinkler operation. If no zones run, suspect power or a rain sensor lockout. If one zone fails, swap that zone's wire with a known-good zone at the controller: if the problem follows the wire, the issue is in the valve/wire path; if it stays on the same terminal, the controller channel may be faulty.
6. Measure solenoid resistance. Unplug power. Remove the suspect zone wire and the common from the controller. At the valve end or at the controller end across that zone wire and common, measure ohms. Typical 24 VAC irrigation solenoids measure roughly 20-60 ohms. An open reading (OL or very high ohms) indicates a broken wire or failed solenoid. A very low reading (under about 10 ohms) suggests a shorted solenoid or splice. Replace the solenoid or repair wiring as required.
7. Check rain sensor and sensor inputs. If you have a wired rain or freeze sensor, verify whether it is normally closed or normally open and that the controller is configured accordingly. A stuck or waterlogged sensor can prevent watering. Temporarily bypass the sensor per the manual (for example, by flipping the sensor bypass switch or removing the sensor jumper and installing the bypass jumper) and test a zone. Also check app-based rain delays or weather skips and disable them while diagnosing.
8. Confirm master valve or pump start wiring. If your system uses a master valve (MV) or a pump start relay, ensure the MV/P terminal is wired to the relay coil and the common is correct. During a manual zone test, use your multimeter to confirm the controller outputs 24 VAC to MV/P when a zone is active. If the pump does not start but the controller outputs 24 VAC, test or replace the pump start relay.
9. Eliminate schedule conflicts. In the app, check that time zone and date are correct, firmware is up to date, and seasonal adjustments are reasonable. Avoid overlapping schedules that exceed the controller's limit for simultaneous zones. Many systems are designed to run one zone at a time to maintain water pressure. Stagger start times and ensure any flow or leak alerts are acknowledged and cleared.
10. Factory reset and re-add as a last resort. Export or note your schedules. Perform a factory reset strictly per the Model 1579 manual. Remove the device from the app, then add it back as a new controller on a strong 2.4 GHz network. Recreate schedules and retest zones. If issues persist after a clean setup and verified wiring, the controller may require service.

Additional tips

• Keep low-voltage splices above grade in waterproof connectors to prevent intermittent shorts.
• Label zone wires by number and location to simplify future diagnostics.
• Use surge protection on the transformer outlet in lightning-prone areas.

When to contact support

If the transformer output is correct but the controller never energizes any zone or the MV/P output, or if it repeatedly drops offline with strong Wi-Fi, gather your test results (voltage readings, resistance values, app screenshots) and contact support with the controller serial number and firmware version. Intermittent faults that survive a factory reset often indicate hardware issues.

Replacement Parts

If diagnostics point to a failed component, these commonly replaced items restore most systems. Always match voltage and specifications to your installation and verify compatibility with the Ring sprinkler system controller Model 1579. For convenience, you can find suitable options here: recommended parts.

• 24 VAC irrigation transformer (plug-in). Choose a transformer that meets or exceeds your system's total current needs. Typical controllers require 24 VAC with 750 mA to 1.5 A capacity. If you measured low or no voltage, replace the transformer. Shop transformers
• 24 VAC valve solenoids. If a zone's solenoid measures open or shorted, replace it with a compatible 24 VAC solenoid for your valve brand. Shop solenoids
• Pump start relay (24 VAC coil). For wells or booster pumps, a failed relay can prevent operation even if the controller is outputting 24 VAC. Match motor voltage and amperage ratings. Shop pump relays
• Rain or freeze sensor. Replace a stuck or waterlogged sensor to restore automatic weather skips. Select normally open or normally closed to match controller settings. Shop sensors
• Waterproof wire connectors and gel caps. Corroded splices cause intermittent zones. Use waterproof, UV-resistant connectors rated for direct burial. Shop connectors
• 18 AWG multi-conductor irrigation cable. If resistance tests show a break, pull new cable between controller and valve box. Choose sunlight- and moisture-resistant cable. Shop cable
• Surge protector or outdoor-rated GFCI. Protects the transformer and controller from power anomalies and lightning-induced surges. Shop surge protection

Pro tip: After replacing any part, retest zones manually before restoring schedules. Document your readings (volts, ohms) and changes so future troubleshooting on Model 1579 is faster and more reliable.