Fix [2026]ing Dyson 4165 Grill: 7 Steps You Haven't Tried

Quick Fix Summary

The most common fix for a Dyson electric grill Model 4165 that will not heat or cooks unevenly is a hard power reset, followed by a thorough cleaning and reseating of the cooking plates and temperature sensor area. Unplug for 5 minutes, clean grease around the sensor, ensure the plates lock fully into place, and preheat with the lid closed until the ready indicator appears.

If the grill still misbehaves, verify the outlet and circuit can supply the grill's full power draw and check the heating element and thermal fuse for continuity.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Safety first

Unplug the grill before opening panels or touching internal parts. Let it cool completely. Wear cut-resistant gloves, and keep water away from electrical components. If you smell burning insulation or see melted plastic, stop and contact a qualified technician.

Tools you may need

• Digital multimeter (with continuity and resistance modes)
• IR thermometer or probe thermometer
• Phillips screwdriver and small flat screwdriver
• Soft brush and non-abrasive cloths
• Food-safe degreaser

1. Confirm power and circuit capacity. The Dyson electric grill Model 4165 typically draws 1500 to 1800 W. At 120 V, that is about 12.5 to 15 A. Plug the grill directly into a dedicated 15 A or 20 A outlet. Avoid extension cords or power strips, which can cause voltage drop and poor heating. Test the outlet with a lamp or outlet tester. If you are on a GFCI outlet, press Reset. Check the breaker panel for a tripped breaker and reset if needed.
2. Inspect the power cord and plug. Look for nicks, kinks, scorch marks, or loose prongs. Perform a gentle wiggle test: with the grill powered on and set to preheat, carefully touch the plug (do not touch bare metal) and cord near the strain relief; if heating cuts in and out, you may have a broken conductor. Unplug and use a multimeter to check continuity from each plug blade to the internal connector (if you are comfortable opening the rear service panel). A damaged cord must be replaced for safety.
3. Reset the control and preheat correctly. Unplug for 5 minutes to discharge the control board. Reconnect power, close the lid fully, select the grill mode, and set 425 F (or the highest setting). Wait 6 to 8 minutes for the ready light or tone. Many grills regulate better with the lid closed, which prevents heat loss and allows the sensor to reach target temperature. If the ready light never appears, proceed to sensor and element checks below.
4. Clean and reseat the plates and sensor area. Remove the nonstick plates. Clean the underside of each plate and the heat spreader with a food-safe degreaser. Pay special attention around the temperature sensor (often a small metal button or probe near the center). Built-up grease can insulate the sensor and trick the control into thinking the grill is hotter than it is. Reseat the plates so all tabs and latches click into place. A plate that sits high on one corner can cause uneven heating and error codes.
5. Check heating element resistance. Unplug the grill and remove the back or bottom service panel. Identify the main heating element terminals. Set the multimeter to resistance (ohms). A healthy 1500 W element at 120 V measures roughly 9.6 ohms; an 1800 W element measures around 8.0 ohms. Readings between 7.5 and 11 ohms are typical. If your meter shows OL (open circuit), the element is burned out. If resistance is under 5 ohms, suspect a shorted element or miswired connection. Replace the element if it is open or shorted.
6. Test the thermal fuse and temperature sensor. Most electric grills include a thermal fuse in series with the element to prevent dangerous overheating. Locate the small inline fuse near the element leads. It should read near 0 ohms. If it is open, it has blown due to overheat and must be replaced with the same temperature rating (often 240 C; check markings). Also check the NTC temperature sensor: at room temperature, many grill NTC sensors measure tens to hundreds of kilo-ohms (for example, 100 k at 25 C). As you warm the sensor gently with a hair dryer (not a flame), the resistance should decrease smoothly. If it is open, erratic, or stuck, replace the sensor.
7. Inspect the control board, connectors, and relays. Reseat spade connectors and ribbon cables firmly. Check for browned PCB areas near the relay or power resistors. With power restored and the grill in preheat (exercise caution and avoid exposed mains), you should hear a soft click as the heating relay engages. If the display shows error codes like E1 (sensor fault), E2 (overheat), or E3 (thermal cutoff), address the corresponding hardware issue first. If all hardware checks out, the control board may be faulty.
8. Fix smoke, sticking, and uneven cooking. Heavy smoke usually indicates residual oil burning off. Clean the drip tray and ensure it is fully inserted to catch runoff. Keep vents clear to avoid heat buildup. Level the grill so fat drains properly. Preheat fully; most grills stabilize after 6 to 10 minutes. Use a thin film of high-smoke-point oil and avoid very sugary marinades, which scorch quickly. If you see hot spots, rotate food and consider lowering the set temperature by 25 F for more even results.
9. Calibrate and verify performance. After cleaning and hardware checks, measure the plate surface with an IR thermometer. At a 350 F setpoint, acceptable variance is typically 330 to 370 F after stabilization. If your grill supports calibration, enter the settings menu and adjust offset by small increments (for example, plus 10 F). Alternatively, time a water sizzle test: a few drops should dance and evaporate within 2 to 4 seconds at medium-high settings.

When to stop and seek service

If the breaker trips repeatedly, the cord or plug gets hot, the element shows visible cracking, or the control board has burned components, discontinue use and contact a professional. Persistent sensor errors after replacement also indicate a control board fault.

Replacement Parts

Many issues can be solved with routine maintenance, but failed components should be replaced with parts that match Dyson electric grill Model 4165 specifications. Common replacements include:

• Heating element assembly (1500-1800 W, correct voltage for your region)
• Thermal fuse (match temperature rating, often 240 C)
• NTC temperature sensor or probe (compatible resistance curve)
• Main control board (PCB with heater relay)
• Power cord (14 AWG or thicker, grounded plug)
• Removable nonstick grill plates and drip tray
• Membrane keypad or selector knob, if unresponsive

For availability, compatibility checks, and customer reviews, shop compatible parts at https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Dyson+electric+grill+Model+4165&tag=manuallogic-20. Always disconnect power and follow the product manual when installing replacements, and verify proper operation with a controlled preheat test before cooking.