Samsung dryer error code HE - Expert Fix Guide [2026]

Quick Fix Summary

On Samsung dryers, the HE error almost always means the dryer failed to heat as expected. In about 80% of cases the fix is to restore proper airflow: clean the lint filter, clear the exhaust duct all the way to the outdoors, and make sure the vent hood opens freely. If airflow is good, the next most common fix is replacing a failed heating component such as the heating element (electric models) or igniter/gas coils (gas models).

What Causes This Problem

The HE error stands for Heating Error. The control detects that the drum is not warming to target temperatures in time and flags a fault. Here are the most common root causes and why they trigger HE:

• Restricted airflow from lint or a blocked vent: Dryers rely on a steady stream of air across the heating element or burner. A clogged lint screen, crushed flex duct, long duct runs with elbows, or a stuck exterior hood traps heat in the drum and housing. The control sees abnormal temperature behavior and either times out on heat or trips a safety thermostat, producing the HE code.
• Failed heating element (electric dryers): On electric units, the heating element can break or short to the housing. A broken coil shows open resistance and no heat production. A coil shorted to ground can overheat and trip safety cutoffs. In both cases, the dryer will not reach temperature and posts HE.
• Ignition issues on gas models: Gas dryers use a hot surface igniter to light the burner and gas valve coils to hold the valve open. If the igniter fails, the flame sensor is faulty, or the coils cannot keep the valve open, the flame will not sustain. The control sees no temperature rise and throws HE.
• Open thermal fuse or high limit thermostat: If temperatures spike due to blocked airflow, safety devices open to cut power to the heat circuit. With the fuse or high limit open, the dryer tumbles but cannot heat, triggering HE.
• Faulty thermistor (temperature sensor) or wiring: Samsung uses an NTC thermistor to monitor air temperature. If the sensor reads out of range (or the harness is loose), the control thinks temperature is not changing appropriately and will flag heating errors. On some models, related codes such as tS (thermistor short) or tO (thermistor open) may also appear.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

1. Power reset the dryer and confirm the code. Turn the dryer off, unplug it for 2 to 5 minutes, then plug back in and power it on. Reselect a heated cycle (not Air Fluff) and press Start to see if HE reappears. A brief reset clears transient control glitches and ensures you are not on a no-heat cycle.
2. Disable Child Lock if buttons do not respond. If the panel seems locked, hold the two buttons indicated by the small lock icon on your panel for about 3 seconds to toggle Child Lock. On many Samsung dryers this is Temp + Time or Dry Level + Temp, but button names vary. Confirm the lock icon disappears, then retest.
3. Clean the lint filter thoroughly. Remove the lint screen and wash it with warm water and dish soap to clear fabric softener residue that can block airflow. Dry it completely and reinstall. Run a quick test cycle; an obstructed screen can be enough to set HE on sensitive models.
4. Check the exhaust path end to end. Pull the dryer out and disconnect the vent hose. Inspect for kinks, crushed spots, or heavy lint. Go outside and verify the vent hood flap opens fully while the dryer runs; hold a tissue up to the outdoor hood to confirm strong airflow. If airflow is weak, clean or replace the duct and avoid foil or vinyl flex duct; use rigid or semi-rigid metal duct with minimal bends.
5. Run a Vent Blockage Test (if your model supports it). With the drum empty and the dryer powered on but not running, press and hold the two buttons labeled for the vent test on your panel (often Time and Temp) for about 3 seconds to start the test. The dryer will run its fan briefly and display Good if airflow is acceptable or Clg/Check if the vent path is restricted. If you do not see this feature, skip this step and proceed with manual airflow checks.
6. Verify household power and breaker status. Electric Samsung dryers require a full 240 V supply from a 2-pole breaker. A half-tripped breaker can let the drum run on 120 V but prevent heat. Turn the double breaker fully off then firmly back on; if you are comfortable with a multimeter, measure 240 V across L1 and L2 at the terminal block. If voltage is missing, call an electrician.
7. Listen and watch for heat behavior. Start a timed dry on High heat with the dryer connected to the vent. After 3 to 5 minutes, open the door and feel for warmth. For gas models, remove the small lower front access cover (if present) and watch: the igniter should glow bright orange, the gas should ignite with a soft whoosh, and the flame should stay on for several minutes. No glow indicates a bad igniter or open safety; glow then no flame suggests bad gas coils or gas supply issues.
8. Unplug and test the thermal fuse and thermostats. Remove the rear panel to access the heater housing on most models. Locate the high limit thermostat and thermal cutoff (often mounted on or near the heater can). With a multimeter set to continuity, each safety device should read closed (near 0 ohms) at room temperature. If any are open, replace the failed part and correct airflow problems to prevent repeat failure. Common part references include high limit thermostat DC47-00016A and thermal cutoff assembly DC96-00887C; verify compatibility by model.
9. Check the heating element (electric models). With power disconnected, remove the heater housing cover and visually inspect the coil for breaks or contact with the housing. Measure the element resistance across its terminals; most Samsung elements read roughly 9 to 12 ohms. Also test for a short to ground by checking each terminal to the metal housing; any continuity indicates a grounded element that must be replaced. Common part references: heating element coil DC47-00019A or complete heater assembly DC97-14486A.
10. Test the thermistor (temperature sensor). Find the thermistor on the blower housing or exhaust duct. At room temperature, most Samsung dryer thermistors measure around 10 k ohms (approximately 9 to 12 k ohms at 77 F). If it reads open, shorted, or far out of range, replace it (common part DC32-00007A). Inspect its harness for loose or corroded connections.
11. Diagnose gas ignition parts (gas models). Unplug the dryer and remove the front lower panel (if applicable). Check the hot surface igniter for continuity; typical readings are between 50 and 400 ohms depending on the design. Inspect the flame sensor mounted on the burner tube; it should read closed (continuity) at room temperature and open when heated. If the igniter glows and goes out without flame, suspect weak gas valve coils. Replace the faulty component and recheck.
12. Clean the blower wheel and internal lint buildup. Lint can accumulate in the blower housing, around the moisture sensor bars, and in internal ducts, causing poor airflow even if the external vent is clear. Inspect the blower wheel for a loose set screw or stripped hub, which can spin freely and reduce air movement. Clean thoroughly and secure the wheel.
13. Inspect wiring and the main control board heater relay. Look for burned connectors at the heater, thermostats, and control board. On the main PCB, the heater relay contacts can arc and fail, preventing voltage from reaching the heater even when the board commands heat. If you have confirmed good power, a good element/igniter, and intact safeties, but the board never sends voltage to the heater circuit, the control board may need replacement. Board part numbers vary by model (often DC92-xxxxx); match by model and serial.
14. Reassemble, clear the code, and test. Reassemble panels, reconnect the vent (ensuring no kinks), and plug the dryer back in. Power on and run a heated cycle with a medium load; verify the drum cycles between warm and cooler air as the thermostat controls temperature. The HE code should not return once the underlying issue is repaired.
15. Prevent recurrence with better airflow. Keep the lint filter clean each load, wash it monthly if you use dryer sheets, and schedule vent cleaning annually or semiannually if you have long ducts. Use smooth wall rigid or semi-rigid metal venting, limit bends, and keep total equivalent length within Samsung recommendations for your model. Good airflow protects safeties and ensures fast, efficient drying.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does HE mean on a Samsung dryer?

HE stands for Heating Error. It means the dryer did not detect the expected temperature rise during a heated cycle. On some models you may also see related codes like HE1 or HE2, and on newer interfaces similar issues may display as HC (overheat) or tS/tO for thermistor faults. Regardless of the code label, start by checking airflow and then the heating system.

How do I reset a Samsung dryer HE error?

There is no dedicated reset button, but you can clear the error state by turning the dryer off, unplugging it for 2 to 5 minutes, then powering it back on. Make sure you select a heated cycle, not Air Fluff, and start the dryer. If HE returns immediately or within a few minutes, proceed with airflow checks and heating component tests because the control is detecting a real heating problem.

Can a clogged vent cause a Samsung dryer HE code?

Yes, restricted airflow is the number one cause of HE. A blocked lint screen, crushed vent hose, long duct runs with elbows, or a stuck exterior vent hood can all trap heat and prevent proper temperature control. The dryer either fails to warm up in time or overheats and trips a safety device, both of which lead to an HE error. Cleaning and restoring free airflow resolves most cases.

What parts usually fail for HE on electric vs gas Samsung dryers?

On electric models, the most common failures are the heating element (often part DC47-00019A or assembly DC97-14486A), the high limit thermostat, the thermal cutoff, or the thermistor. On gas models, typical failures are the hot surface igniter, gas valve coils, flame sensor, or the same safety thermostats if airflow is poor. Always rule out airflow first, because poor venting can cause repeat failures of new parts.

Where is the thermal fuse on a Samsung dryer?

On most Samsung dryers, the thermal cutoff (often referred to as the thermal fuse) and the high limit thermostat are mounted on or near the metal heater housing at the back of the dryer. You will typically need to unplug the dryer, remove the rear panel, and identify the small thermostat bodies attached with two wires each. Test them for continuity at room temperature and replace any that are open.

When to Call a Professional

Call a certified appliance technician if you smell gas, see scorch marks, the breaker repeatedly trips, or you are not comfortable using a multimeter around 240 V circuits. You should also call a pro if you have verified good airflow and basic components but the dryer still posts HE, because control board diagnostics and gas system testing require experience and safety procedures.

Typical repair cost ranges (parts and labor) for HE-related issues are:

• Professional vent cleaning: 100 to 180 USD
• Thermal fuse or high limit thermostat replacement: 150 to 220 USD
• Heating element replacement (electric): 180 to 320 USD
• Igniter or gas valve coils replacement (gas): 160 to 280 USD
• Thermistor replacement: 140 to 220 USD
• Main control board replacement: 280 to 480 USD

Prices vary by region and model, but if your estimate approaches half the cost of a new dryer and the unit is older, consider replacement. A pro can also verify duct design and measure backpressure to prevent repeat failures.

Replacement Parts

Always match parts by your exact model number and serial. The links below are Amazon searches you can use to find compatible replacements; verify fitment on the product page before ordering.

• Samsung dryer heating element DC47-00019A: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+heating+element+DC47-00019A&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Samsung heater assembly DC97-14486A: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+DC97-14486A&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• High limit thermostat DC47-00016A: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+DC47-00016A&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Thermal cutoff fuse assembly DC96-00887C: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+DC96-00887C&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Dryer thermistor DC32-00007A: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+thermistor+DC32-00007A&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Gas dryer igniter (Samsung): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+gas+dryer+igniter&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Gas valve coils (Samsung dryer): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+gas+valve+coils&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Main control board (Samsung dryer model specific): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+control+board&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Semi-rigid dryer vent duct 4 inch: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=semi+rigid+dryer+vent+duct+4+inch&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20
• Dryer vent cleaning brush kit: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=dryer+vent+cleaning+kit&tag=https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Samsung+dryer+error+code+HE&tag=manuallogic-20

Safety reminder: Always unplug the dryer (and shut off gas for gas models) before opening panels or testing components. If you are unsure about any step, especially live electrical testing or gas work, contact a professional technician.