Shark 1685 Slow Cooker Not Heating? Try This First [2026]

Quick Fix Summary

Most issues with the Shark slow cooker Model 1685 come down to simple power and setup problems. Before anything else, verify the outlet and cord, set the control to High, and run a quick water test with the crock and lid properly seated. Many users resolve no-heat or weak-heat symptoms by resetting the outlet, reseating components, and cleaning residue from the base-to-crock contact area.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

The Shark slow cooker Model 1685 is a countertop 120 V AC appliance with a ceramic crock, a wrap-around heating element inside the metal base, a control knob (typically Warm/Low/High), and a glass lid. The steps below will help you diagnose no power, no heat, slow heating, and uneven cooking. Always unplug before any inspection or disassembly.

What you will need

A dry towel, mild dish soap, non-scratch sponge, flashlight, and optionally a multimeter (for continuity/resistance checks) and a small screwdriver to remove the bottom cover.

1. Safety and warranty check. Unplug the cooker and let it cool fully. Inspect the rating and warranty labels under the base. If the unit is still under warranty, contact Shark support before opening the base. Never operate a damaged appliance. Do not bypass safety devices such as thermal fuses.
2. Confirm the power source. Plug a known-good lamp or phone charger into the same outlet to verify power. If using a GFCI or AFCI outlet or a power strip, press the Reset button and try again. Avoid dimmer-controlled or switched outlets. Inspect the power cord for cuts, melted spots, or loose prongs. If the cord is warm to the touch in use or visibly damaged, discontinue use and plan a cord replacement.
3. Control and quick heat check. With the cooker empty and dry, set it on a stable, heat-safe surface. Place the control on High, then plug it in. Many slow cookers have a small indicator light that illuminates on powered settings; if yours has one and it does not turn on, suspect the switch, fuse, cord, or outlet. After 5 to 10 minutes, carefully feel the outer side of the metal base. It should begin to warm. If there is no warmth at all, skip ahead to electrical checks.
4. Water test for performance. Place the crock in the base, add about 2 cups of room-temperature water, and cover with the lid. Select High. After 30 minutes, the water should be noticeably warm, and condensation should form on the lid. After about 2 hours, you should see gentle simmering around the edges. Factors like starting temperature, altitude, and fill level affect timing, but this test reveals most heating issues quickly.
5. Fit, fill, and surface checks. Remove the crock and inspect the inside of the base for food residue or foil that could insulate the crock from the heat sensor area. Clean and dry the base interior. Reseat the crock so it sits flat with no wobble. Confirm the lid fits fully. Always use the cooker on a flat, hard surface; thick pads or reflective metal trivets under the base can disrupt heat flow. Avoid overfilling above about three-quarters full or underfilling below one-third, as both can cause uneven results.
6. Clean contact and sensor areas. Some slow cookers rely on direct thermal contact between the crock bottom and a small raised area or the surrounding metal. Baked-on residue can create an air gap. Wipe the underside of the crock and the base interior with warm, soapy water, rinse, and dry. Never place any liner or foil between the crock and the base; only use approved slow-cooker liners inside the crock.
7. Inspect wiring and the thermal fuse (advanced). Unplug the unit. Turn it upside down on a towel. Remove the bottom cover screws and gently lift the cover. Inside you will see the heating element leads, a selector switch, possibly a thermostat or bimetal protector, and often an inline thermal fuse (a small cylindrical component wrapped in fiberglass sleeve). Look for loose spade connectors, burnt insulation, or darkened spots. Using a multimeter, check continuity of the heating element by probing across its two leads. It should show finite resistance (not open). A reading of infinite/open indicates a failed element. Check the thermal fuse for continuity; an open fuse indicates it has blown due to an overheat event and must be replaced with an identical temperature and amperage rating. Do not solder directly to a thermal fuse; use crimp connectors and heat-resistant sleeve.
8. Test the selector switch and thermostat. With the unit still unplugged and the bottom open, rotate the control through Off, Low, and High. Use a multimeter to check for continuity through the switch terminals according to position. If the switch does not pass continuity on Low or High, it may be worn or oxidized. Some models include a thermostat or bimetal cutoff attached to the base; check that device for continuity at room temperature. Components that fail continuity tests typically require replacement rather than repair.
9. Address uneven cooking and scorching. Scorched edges usually come from high-sugar sauces, insufficient liquid, or cooking on High for too long. Add at least 1/2 cup of liquid to dense recipes, avoid lifting the lid often, and consider starting on High for 1 hour then switching to Low. If the crock has hairline cracks or a warped bottom, heat distribution will suffer; replace the crock. For food safety, Keep Warm should hold foods above 140 F; verify with a food thermometer placed in water after a full heat cycle.
10. Reassemble and retest. If you made repairs or reseated connectors, reattach the bottom cover, ensuring wires are not pinched. Run the water test again. If the cooker still does not heat, trips the breaker, or shows visible arcing or smoking, discontinue use. Replacing the base or the entire unit is often more economical than sourcing a new heating element assembly.

Helpful technical notes

• Check the rating label under the base to confirm your unit's voltage and wattage. Match any replacement parts to these specifications.
• Do not bypass thermal protection. If the thermal fuse opened, find and fix the root cause (blocked airflow, incorrect liners, overfilled pot) before replacing it.
• Use only genuine or compatible parts rated for high temperature and food appliance use.

Replacement Parts

If inspection points to a failed component, these common parts for the Shark slow cooker Model 1685 can often restore safe operation. Always match parts by model number and rating, and when in doubt, consult a qualified appliance technician.

• Replacement power cord set (with strain relief and correct plug type): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Control knob (for worn, cracked, or missing knobs): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Glass lid (chips, warping, or missing vent can cause heat loss): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Ceramic crock (for cracked or warped stoneware): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Thermal fuse (match temperature and current ratings exactly): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Selector switch (if the Low/High contacts fail continuity): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Heating element band (if open circuit is confirmed): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20
• Rubber feet and base screws (to restore stable, level placement): https://www.amazon.com/s?k=Shark+slow+cooker+Model+1685&tag=manuallogic-20

After any part replacement, perform the water test on High and then on Low to confirm proper heating and temperature stability. Keep records of the parts used and the unit's ratings for future maintenance.